Lisbon's hills teach you patience. The city is steep in ways that don't show on a map — you think you're walking ten minutes to dinner and forty minutes later you're still climbing.
Miradouros
Every neighborhood has one. A terrace, a small plaza, a bench at the end of a street — somewhere the buildings drop away and the whole city lays itself out below. The best ones aren't the famous ones.
Tram 28
Famous and packed. Worth it once, for the photos. But Tram 18 through Ajuda runs similar routes with half the crowds.
Pastel de nata math
Three per day is the minimum. Four is ideal. Five and you've gone too far.